Maroantsetra Antalaha trek around the Masoala peninsula

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THIS WALK IS NOT FOR EVERYBODY

DAY 1

  • start at 10am
  • start at Tampolodge walking through secondary forest
  • trail alternates between beach and trees
  • trees form a constant green tunnel
  • endless natural beaches: picture perfect unspoiled with virtually no interference of human activities
  • after about 2 hours reaching the village Marofototra (11:56am): about 400 people living there, school, small medical centre, inhabitants are fishermen and live stock as well as rice farmers, 2-3 shops (last shops before todays end of walk), had lunch there in a private house, river crossing by pirogue directly after village
  • river crossing by foot
  • 1 hour walk continues to Antalavia with an eco lodge in a bay with yet another beautiful beach, lodge is completely isolated, starts at 10,000 Ariary (2016), sunset, aye aye in the night
  • step counter at 20.89km (3 hrs / 17415 steps)

S 15°43.964'
E049°57.549'

S 15°44.573'
E049°58.068'

S 15°45.581'
E049°59.211'
15m elevation

Marofototra (name = many tree stumps)
10330 steps
S 15°45.920'
E049°59.779'

river crossing by foot
S 15°47.022'
E050°00.759'

Antalavia
S 15°47.133'
E050°01.044'
8m elevation


DAY 2

  • start 5:15am
  • walk along the bay until 2 bigger river crossings, thereafter starts the National Park
  • endless partly steep up and down through the primary rain forest with countless small river crossings (minimum 7 hours in the forest)
  • amazing soundkulisse: birds, water streams, rain, shouting lemurs
  • we saw red ruffed lemur, brown lemur, short legged ground warbler
  • after leaving the forest comes a very muddy 2 hours walk along rice fields until reaching Ratranavona (3:15pm)
  • small village with a shop, bar with attached cinema (Saturday at 9pm, 300 Ariary)
  • behind the bar are 2 rooms in a separate building for rent: very simple with a mattress straight on the floor and "not recommendable" shower/toilet (5,000 Ariary in 2015)

river crossing
S 15°47.684'
E050°01.125'

S 15°48.337'
E050°01.643'
17m elevation

7376 steps
S 15°48.779'
E050°02.102'
15m elevation

Isava river
8884 steps
S 15°49.154'
E050°02.216'

mountain top
12329 steps
S 15°49.824'
E050°02.784'
185m elevation

Manteraely (rest point)
13906 steps
S 15°50.055'
E050°03.082'
207m elevation

picnic
16440 steps
S 15°50.525'
E050°03.323'
107m elevation

mud trail (after forest?)
19210 steps
S 15°51.244'
E050°03.482'
98m elevation

21019 steps
S 15°51.656'
E050°03.600'
155m elevation

22837 steps
S 15°52.112'
E050°03.755'
118m elevation

rice field
23945 steps
S 15°52.337'
E050°03.812'
29m elevation

rice
26453 steps
S 15°52.347'
E050°03.823'
22m elevation

29230 steps
S 15°53.490'
E050°04.048'
21m elevation

30569 steps
S 15°53.824'
E050°03.962'
25m elevation

village
S 15°54.026'
E050°03.888'
22m elevation

Ratranavona
34004 steps
S 15°54.160'
E050°03.912'
22m elevation


DAY 3

  • starting at 5:30am in Ratranavona with a river crossing behind the village
  • passing several fishing villages
  • many wonderful idyllic beaches with granite formations
  • only two smaller mountains today
  • arriving 4pm in Vinanivao (50376)
  • long stretched village, private school, many small shops and market stalls selling all kind of needy things (food, cloth, mobile phones, hardware)
  • very basic accommodation available directly at the harbour, but better choice is 10 min walk outside the village along the road to Antalaha: 10 bungalows, shared cold water shower/toilet, 10,000 Ariary (2015)
  • from here transport via motorcycle available (moto rapid) - towards direction Antalaha, usually 3 people on one bike
  • saying good bye to Claudio

houses next bay
S 15°54.925'
E050°04.440'

beach again
6038 steps
S 15°55.533'
E050°05.109'

fishermen beach
10931 steps
S 15°55.920'
E050°06.284'
11m elevation

best football field
S 15°56.185'
E050°06.969'
4m elevation

Namantoana
13928 steps
S 15°56.197'
E050°07.116'
12m elevation

Fampotabe
17621 steps
9am
S 15°56.205
E050°08.328
8m elevation

Antezampafana
crossing Masoala peninsula
S 15°56.757
E050°09.125'
15m elevation

Ambodikily
25201 steps
S 15°57.257'
E050°10.638'
37m elevation

Beankora
lots of shells
29259 steps
S 15°57.245'
E050°11.973'
16m elevation

National Park area (walk through)
S 15°57.267'
E050°12.800'
26m elevation

mangroves
32555 steps
S 15°57.275'
E050°12.918'
24m elevation

small village
35558 steps
S 15°56.462'
E050°13.778'
12m elevation

Antanambao
37300 steps
S 15°56.132'
E050°14.348'
12m elevation

???
S 15°54.910'
E050°14.600'
12m elevation

???
S 15°53.323'
E050°15.845'
19m elevation

46083 steps
S 15°53.322'
E050°15.847'
19m elevation

home of Claudio's uncle
S 15°53.203'
E050°16.020'
17m elevation

hotel in Vinanivao
50376 steps
S 15°52.618'
E050°16.517'
17m elevation


DAY 4

  • start at 7.05
  • first day on our own
  • river crossing with less than seaworthy pair of pirogues nailed together with planks
  • trail leads through mostly deforested landscapes dominated by cloves trees and palmtrees
  • motorcycle taxis pass with passangers as this is the only possible mode of fast transport
  • ocean visible towards end of walk
  • second last village has basic bungalows
  • last village is reached after crossing big river double pirogue pulled across by rope
  • cost of bigger pirogue 1000 ariary p/person
  • Ampanavoana - hotel plus food 25,000 Ariary (simple bungalows, surprisingly clean shower/toilet, restaurant), next to shop, opposite the hotel fresh roasted and brewed coffee available in the morning hours
  • air strip behind hotel
  • police chef asked us to come to his office and to show passports, strangely or funnily he was staying at the bungalow opposite from us
  • 37436 steps

some houses
4335 steps
S 15°51.064'
E050°16.882'
6m elevation

village
8966 steps
S 15°49.351'
E050°16.900'
16m elevation

Anovandrano
10438 steps
S 15°48.912'
E050°17.186'
21m elevation

Faleovan
13100 steps
S 15°48.065'
E050°17.142'
21m elevation

17719 steps
S 15°46.457'
E050°17.865'
27m elevation

houses
S 15°45.866'
E050°18.094'
19m elevation

19950 steps
S 15°45.143'
E050°18.143'
13m elevation

Anjanazana
20909 steps
S 15°45.481'
E050°18.220'
17m elevation

Ambodisatrana hospital
S 15°45.240'
E050°18.267'
21m elevation

ocean view
24638 steps
S 15°44.149'
E050°19.149'
24m elevation

Ambodipont
29216 steps
S 15°43.884'
E050°20.298'
20m elevation

panorama view
33293 steps
S 15°42.495'
E050°20.999'
24m elevation

Marofinaritra
35871 steps
S 15°42.112'
E050°21.173'
17m elevation

Ampanavoana
hotel
S 15°41.194'
E050°21.722'
37436 steps


DAY 5

  • start 5:45am
  • pleasant breakfast with tea, muffins, mofo gasy and fried manjok
  • visited traditional Malagasy ship building
  • we walked too far direction Antalaha because the road splits going more inland
  • ended up in a small fishing village Ratsiaranana, very poor with a very basic hotel (not sure if that was the village we wanted to go to)
  • hosts Clemenc and Pascaline prepared us a delicious dinner and made the best out of the room (room plus food 12,000)
  • 49386 steps

7347 steps
S 15°38.823'
E050°22.695'
9m elevation

ship building
12072 steps
S 15°37.379'
E050°23.527'
4m elevation

16572 steps
S 15°36.123'
E050°23.868'
12m elevation

Fampotakely
S 15°35.673'
E050°24.093'
12m elevation

21999 steps
S 15°34.593'
E050°24.953'
13m elevation

Libertalia village
24508 village
S 15°33.707'
E050°25.329'
12m elevation

Antsahambavy
30212 steps
S 15°31.710'
E050°25.410'
13m elevation

hotel with nice bungalows just on the road
37889 steps
S 15°28.924'
E050°25.736'
19m elevation

S15°27.678'_E050°25.589' - village from where trail leads 4km down to Ratsianarana
S 15°27.678'
E050°25.589'
22m elevation

graveyard at S15°27.438'_E050°25.894' (-15.457393, 50.431802)
43838 steps
S 15°27.438'
E050°25.894'
21m elevation

45242 steps
S 15°27.367'
E050°26.401'
16m elevation

Ratsianarana
hotel
49386 steps
S 15°27.849'
E050°27.248'


DAY 6

  • leaving Ratsianarana at 5:30am
  • crossing river via pirogue behind village
  • then another river crossing with pirogue
  • walk through mangroves along an old disused road, many small bridges, road made of rough stones
  • thereafter joining regular unpaved road
  • a couple of kilometres before reaching Cap Est the landscape is dominated by many Ravelana palms
  • first sign of Cap Est is light tower and radio antennas- make sure not to miss the opportunity to visit the light house and ask to visit the top of the light for a panoramic view in all directions
  • thereafter only short walk to village
  • Hotel La Résidence du Cap (30,000 opening price, thereafter 50,000, dinner about 10,000), best accommodation in the area
  • another hotel with basic bungalows (Voyageur?)
  • Nosy Angontsy

S 15°27.154'
E050°27.323'
9m elevation

Nosy island
4707 steps
S 15°26.438'
E050°27.212'

Ankiana
6735 steps
S 15°25.619'
E050°26.942'

cinema village
9347 steps
S 15°24.963'
E050°27.296'
10m elevation

Maharavo
12996 steps
S 15°23.951'
E050°27.878'
15m elevation

Analalava
S 15°23.057'
E050°27.682'
17m elevation

Ambohimahery
20806 steps
lunch, recharging batterie
S 15°21.569'
E050°28.418'
14m elevation

vanilla man
25778 steps
S 15°20.042'
E050°28.653'
20m elevation

Sahanjahana
S 15°19.908'
E050°28.736'
20m elevation

industrial oven
30083 steps
S 15°18.689'
E050°28.404'
21m elevation

33562 steps
S 15°17.433'
E050°28.165'
20m elevation

view onto Cap Est
S 15°17.118'
E050°28.256'
46m elevation

road up to light tower
S 15°16.685'
E050°28.279'
19m elevation

La Résidence du Cap
Cap Est
43686 steps
S 15°15.782'
E050°28.860'


DAY 7

  • start 5am
  • after 4km walk to Ambohitralanana along a sandy road first river crossing
  • scenery with plenty of Ravenala trees
  • another river crossing by pirogue, all other smaller rivers have bridges
  • landscape changes from wilder open terrain to farmland
  • road changes from sand road to hart red-coloured dirt road
  • various villages along the way
  • arriving at Ocean Momo in Antalaha early evening about 7pm

Ambohimandroso
priest Bernard, catholic church
college, primary school
hospital, pharmacy
village moved to a higher location after flood couple of years ago
5028 steps
S 15°14.676'
E050°27.314'
5m elevation

Ambohitralanana
river crossing (1,000 per person)
6567 steps
S 15°14.380'
E050°26.804'
7m elevation

Anjahamarina
S 15°14.049'
E050°26.544'
22m elevation

Marambo
long stretched village
14802 steps
S 15°11.358'
E050°25.996'
11m elevation

river crossing
16354 steps
S 15°10.883'
E050°26.011'
6m elevation

road splits to Ambalabe
some shops and market stalls at turn
20690 steps
S 15°09.393'
E050°25.709'
15m elevation

23796 steps
S 15°08.522'
E050°25.113'
11m elevation

mountains of dried empty coconuts
25560 steps
S 15°07.969'
E050°24.752'
12m elevation

Andratany
very small village
production of char coal
26582 steps
S 15°07.720'
E050°24.466'
14m elevation

Andasibe
30774 steps
S 15°06.479'
E050°23.679'
15m elevation

Andingozabe
35972 steps
S 15°04.927'
E050°22.349'
23m elevation

Andongozabe
40390 steps
S 15°03.683'
E050°21.484'
20m elevation

Sahantaha
43688 steps
S 15°02.561'
E050°20.738'
17m elevation

Mahatsara
S 15°00.397'
E050°18.733'
21m elevation

Antalaha
70356 steps