Difference between revisions of "Isalo National Park"

Revision as of 17:21, 18 October 2012

The Isalo National Park is part of the Ranohira municipality in the Ihorombe region. The park is located 279 kilometres south of Fianarantsoa and 80 kilometres south of Ihosy. The park is the most visited protected area in Madagascar and a popular highlight when discovering the Great South.

Isalo National Park was founded in 1962 and is administrated by Madagascar National Parks since 1997. The park is situated along the RN7, a tarred road connecting the capital of Antananarivo with Tulear. The road is in very good condition and accessible all year round. The route from Antananarivo to Ranohira, also known as the "door to Isalo", takes about 15 hours by car (701km). From Tulear to Ranohira is a 4-hour drive (250km). It is also possible to travel by taxi-brousse, which leave daily from Fasan’ny Karana station in Antananarivo, Antsimo station in Fianarantsoa and Sanfily station in Tulear.

The park spreads over an area of 81,540 hectares, with an average length of 59 kilometres and an average width of 22 kilometres. The perimeter of the park is 164 kilometres. The altitude varies between 514 metres and 1,268 metres and some of the canyons are up to 200 metres deep.

The Isalo massif is a continental sandstone plateau, dating back to the Jurassic times. The park features various sandy valleys and narrow canyons. Strongly attacked by erosion, the rocks vary in shape and composition. The soil in the park is rich in iron and aluminium.

In the eastern part of the park, the following rivers flow from north to south: Marandra, Tsiombivoly, Andriamanero, Andranonkova and Namaza Ianakandrarezo, all small tributary rivers of the Menamaty, a tributary river of Mangoky. In the western part, the following rivers stream from north to south: Sambay, Amboloando, Ankademoky, Sakamalio, Hoanga, Vohibasia, Andranomena and Sambalahitsara Analakira, all of which are small tributary rivers of Malio, another tributary of the river Mangoky.

The climate is tropical dry, with an annual rainfall of 800-1000mm in the months of December to March and an average temperature of 17°C in June and 25°C in February.

Since centuries the Bara people dominate the Isalo region. Their main activities are livestock, especially zebu, and agriculture.

Fauna

Birds

There are 77 bird species living in the Isalo National Park, of which one is endemic to Madagascar, the Pseudocosyphus bensoni - Benson's rock thrush. The following species can be observed in the reserve:

Reptiles and Amphibians

39 species of reptiles can be found in the park. The snake Typhlops arenarius and the skink Mabuya vato are endemic.

The main families are:

• Pelomedusidae - fresh water turtles
• Geckonidae - geckos
• Opluridae - iguanas
• Chamaeleonidae - chameleons
• Scincidae - skinks
• Cordylidae - lizards
• Typhlopidae - blind snakes
• Colubridae - snakes

Amongst the amphibians living in the park are 2 endemic frog species: Mantidactylus corvus and the Malagasy rainbow frog (Scaphiophryne gottlebei).

Mammals

• 14 species of lemurs can be found in the park. The following lemurs are nocturnal (active at night): Coquerel's giant mouse lemur (Mirza coquereli), Red-tailed sportive lemur (Lepilemur ruficaudatus), Western fat-tailed dwarf lemur (Cheirogaleus medius) and the Grey mouse lemur (Microcebus murinus). The Verreaux's sifaka ("Propithecus verreauxi"), Ring-tailed lemur ("Lemur catta") and Brown lemur ("Eulemur fulvus") are diurnal (day active).
• Carnivores: Small Indian civet (Viverricula indica), Fossa (Cryptoprocta ferox) and the Malagasy civet ("Fossa fossana").
• Insectivores: Lesser hedgehog tenrec ("Echinops telfairi).
• Omnivores (all-eater)
• Rodents

By 2009, following mammals were listed in the park:

The best fauna most visible to tourists

Flora

In the Isalo National Park more than 400 plant species grow. The following plants are endemic to Madagascar:

• Pachypodium rosulatum - Elephant's Foot Plant of the Apocynaceae family
• Catharantus ovalis - medicinal plant, endemic to the Ihorombe region and the entire plain of Zomandao
• Kalanchoe - medicinal plant
• Palmier d’Isalo - adapted itself to the hot, dry climate of the Isalo region
• Bismarckia nobilis - a typical palm of the region, with the particularity to resist fire. Its branches are used by the villagers for plaiting. The Malagasy name for the palm is "Satrana".
  
  

The best flora most visible to tourists

Landscape

This huge eroded massif extends over a large grass bed dotted with patches of forest. Isalo offers a fantastic, colourful landscape, shaped by erosion, and incredible panoramas.

The south consists of a large, sandy plateau, 800 metres above sea level. The plateau is characterised by savanna, shrubs, grassland and naturally eroded sandstone hills.

The east consists of a large plateau with an altitude of 1,000 to 2,000 metres. It is largely covered by sclerophyllous plants and grassland. The plateau is cut by numerous varyingly deep canyons with more or less permanent streams. The east of this plateau is dominated by rocky cliffs, characteristic for Isalo.

The west is a vast monocline plateau with an average altitude of 1,000 metres. It is almost entirely covered by sclerophyllous plants and large plains of grassland. In several places the plateau is cut by canyons, similar to those in the east. Like the east plateau, the west plateau also ends by rocky cliffs.

The central part between the east and the west is dominated by a valley, a sequence of plains and low-lying plateau, surrounded by sclerophyllous plants and grass meadows.

The north consists of a large rock barrier in the eastern part with typical rocky escarpment at its end, varying in altitude between 800 and 1,200 metres. The centre is formed by a vast monocline plateau, about 600 to 700 metres above sea level, which greatly reduces the lowering to the Amboloando river. The eastern part is a low plateau of 600 to 700 metres above sea level, descenting to the Malio river.

The area surrounding the park in the west, east and south consists of peneplain with an average altitude of 800 metres. (A peneplain represents the final stage of fluvial erosion in times of extended tectonic stability.) In the west, some forest along the river beds of Malio, Analalava and Analambia remains, forming the park boundary at this side. In the east, there is also a remnant forest along the river bed of the Menamaty, but smaller in size compared to the west. The rest is dominated by a large tree and shrub savanna which occupies a large area with grass land.

Guides and entrance fees

The park office is located in Ranohira, 3 kilometres east of the park. There you can inform yourself about the various tours, guides and their rates as well as accommodation costs. Please bear in mind that the office does not open before 7am, so it is advised to obtain an entrance permit already a day in advance in order to have a full day in the park.

There are 70 guides working in the park. All speak French, as well as some English, Italian and German. All guides are educated in ecology, geology, local culture and technical guidance. A noticeboard informs visitors about the specialty of each guide.

More information about the park is available at the Maison de l'Isalo, an interpretation centre located in Zahavola, about 9 kilometres south of Ranohira along the RN7 direction Tulear. The centre holds a permanent exhibition about the geology, fauna, flora and the influence by the local people. The museum is open daily from 6.30am to 6pm and there is no entrance fee.

The admission fee for visiting the park depends on how many days will be spent in the park. Foreign tourists pay 25,000 Ariary for 1 day, 37,000 Ariary for 2 days, 40,000 Ariary for 3 days and 50,000 Ariary for 4 to 10 days (prices 2010). Guides are obligatory. The fee for a guide depends on the chosen tour (circuit) and can vary from 16,000 Ariary for the Natural Swimming Pool circuit to 20,000 Ariary for the Maki Canyon. Porters cost 10,000 Ariary a day.

The income derived from entrance fees is used to finance several microprojects in the area, such as building of schools, wells, basic hospital, market place and reforesting.

Circuits (Tours)

There are several circuits crossing the Isalo National Park. Visitors can choose between easy and medium level circuits. It is possible to combine individual circuits by staying overnight at a campsite in the park.

Piscine Naturelle - Natural Swimming Pool Circuit

Medium circuit, 3 km by car from Ranohira to Mangily and thereafter 3 km trek (3 hours).
What to see?
This is the most popular circuit in the park offering panoramic views. The trek leads you to a palm-fringed pool, constantly fed by a warm waterfall. You walk through diverse ecosystems passing eroded cliffs with strange shapes, the plain of Tapia trees, the big savannas and several tombs of the Bara and Sakalava people. Beside various plants, one can observe the Ring-tailed lemur in the Mangily forest. The narby Analatapia campsite has a toilet, shower and barbecue facilities.
Guide: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

Cascade de Nymphe, Piscine Noire et Bleue - Cascade of the Nymphs, Black and Blue Swimming Pool Circuit

Easy circuit, 4km by car, thereafter 2,8km trek (3.5 hours). Easy trek to the campsite, however, the ascent from the river up the waterfall or to the Black Swimming Pool can be more strenuous.
What to see?
This tour takes you through the canyon to the Black or Blue Swimming Pool. You will climb along waterfalls inhabited by many rare birds, butterflies and lizards. From the top, one has a panoramic view over the green canyon. Throughout this trek you will have the possibility to spot lemurs. The highlight is a bath in the dark waters of the Cascade of the Nymphs.
Guide for the Cascade of the Nymphs: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary
Guide for the Black and Blue Swimming Pool: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

Canyon des Makis et Rats - Canyon of the Makis and Rats Circuit

Medium circuit, first 17km by car, thereafter 1.7km trek (2.5 hours).
What to see?
This circuit combines the wild nature and cultural discoveries. The trek offers panoramic views onto rice fields, incised rocks, gorges, the Canyon of the Makis and Rats as well as the huge Ihorombe plateau. The hike will take you to a former royal village, where you will see the surrounding palace wall, the royal bath, the royal tombs as well as traditional Bara tombs. While hiking up the huge gorges you can discover the unique flora of the forest and observe numerous colonies of lemurs, birds, butterflies and lizards. At the end of the trek you can go for a swim in the canyon.
Guide for the Canyon of the Makis: 24,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 20,000 Ariary
Guide for the Canyon of the Makis and Rats: 30,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 24,000 Ariary

Crête - The Crest Circuit

Medium circuit, 3km by car and thereafter 4km on foot (2.5 hours).
What to see?
Discover the natural geological forms, for which Isalo is famous: "Reine de l’Isalo" - The Queen of Isalo, "Botte" - The Boot, "Loup" - The Wolf, "Tsingy de l’Isalo" - sharp limestone karst pinnacles.

The Malaso Circuit

Medium circuit, 42km by car (4 hours), thereafter a 2km trek. The Malaso circuit draws its name from the zebu thieves which use the natural labyrinth of the Isalo for their activities.
What to see?
The car will take you to a site where Pachypodium, Aloe and Kalanchoe grow. Thereafter you will trek for one hour with the opportunity to discover the vegetation of the Isalo National Park. You will see the southern wall, the Tsihitafototra canyon, lemurs, the Isalo Ranch and The Boot. Thereafter the trek will continue through a geological site, where you will see the Tsingy of Isalo in the savanna, the Ampasimaiky cliffs and The Wolf rock formation. From the peak at a height of 975m above sea level you will have an unlimited view over the entire park, the best place to admire the vast extent of Isalo. 30km further you will be near Lac Andranovorinkaolo, a lake paradise for wild ducks. Thereafter, cross the Satrana savanna to get to the Window of Isalo - a natural rock formation in shape of a window through which the sunset can be seen.

The Antsifotra Circuit

Medium circuit, 29km by car (5 hours) and thereafter 5km on foot.
What to see?
This circuit will take you to a riparian forest where lemurs live. The trek and ends at the foot of an amazing waterfall.
Guide: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

The Anjofo circuit

Medium circuit, 29km by car (5 hours) and thereafter 5km on foot.
What to see?
This trek along rain-loving vegetation gives you the opportunity to see orchids, birds and lemurs. The hike ends at a wonderful waterfall.
Guide: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

Lac Vert de l’Isalo - The Green Lake Circuit

Medium circuit, 20km by car (4 hours) and thereafter 1km on foot.
What to see?
You will cross the Tapia forest, an riparian forest with palms and lemurs, to reach the Green Lake (Lac Verte) which is a sacred location.
Guide: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

Grand Tour - The Big Circuit

Hard circuit, 4 days on average. 120km on foot or 40km by car and 80km on foot.
What to see?
This tour compiles all sites, fauna and flora of the park: Archaeological sites (Grotte des Portugais), unforgettable panoramas, the dry forest and the rain forest, birds and lemurs (day as well as night active) and the natural swimming pool.
Guide for Natural Swimming Pool Circuit and Cascade of the Nymphs Circuit: 32,000 Ariary (1-4 people)
Guide for Canyon of the Makis Circuit and Cascade of the Nymphs Circuit: 36,000 Ariary (1-4 people)
Guide for Cascade of the Nymphs Circuit and Black and Blue Swimming Pool Circuit: 24,000 Ariary (1-4 people)
Guide for Canyon of the Makis Circuit, Natural Swimming Pool Circuit and Cascade of the Nymphs Circuit: 52,000 Ariary (1-4 people)

Tourist attractions in the region

• Grotte d’Ihosy - an underground cave located about 9 kilometres from Ranohira, easy to reach by foot or car.
  
  

Habits and customs in the region

• Bilo - a ritual of exorcism to cure the patient by removing the spirit that inhabits its host. During the 7-day long ceremony an ox is slaughtered. The involved persons are the patient, the healer, the Mahavatsy and the Tiam-bilo.
• Turning of the dead - a 7-day funeral ritual, at which relatives and villagers have the opportunity to speak to the deceased.
• Hazomanga - sacrificial ceremony to pray the "Zanahary" for the living and the dead. Hazomanga is the name for the altar where the sacrifice takes place as well as for the person who officiates the sacrifice.
• Sikily - circumcision

Three elements are present in all sacrificial rites:

• Prayer - to call Zanahary and the ancestors to explain the reasons for the opportunity and demand.
• Joro - the sacrifice, usually a cow or rice and honey in case of pregnancy.
• Tsipirano - the blessing, spraying water or water mixed with blood at the Joro.

The omnipresence of zebu in traditional ceremonies is a natural element in the culture of the Bara people. In the past, before getting married, a young Bara had to steal a zebu to prove his strength and bravery. The Malaso Circuit was named after the famous cattle thieves, who still use until today the natural labyrinth of the Isalo for their activities. Malaso literally means cattle thief.

Fady - What not to do in the park

Fady's are not strictly taboos, they are more beliefs which signal when something is "dangerous" related to action, food, locations etc. In the Isalo National Park following things are fady:

• Goat meat
• Guineafowl

The entire Isalo National Park is a sacred place.

Accommodation in the park

Analatapia Camp

• 68 tent sites, tents for 2 people, 5,000 Ariary per person/night.
  

Namaza Camp

• 34 tent sites, tents for 2 people, 5,000 Ariary per person/night.
  

Gîte de l’Isalo

• 5,000 Ariary per person/night.
  
  

Accommodation outside the park

In Ranohira and along the RN7 direction south are plenty of accommodation opportunities, ranging from basic rooms to luxurious bungalows. There is also the possibility of a homestay by renting a room from a local.

Berny Hotel (18 rooms)
Ranohira
Tel: +261 (0)32 0525769 (mobile)
www.berny-isalo.com

Momo Trek (rooms, bungalows and camp site)
Ranohira
Tel: + 261 (0)32 4418790 (mobile) or + 261 (0)33 9005007 (mobile)

Hotel Orchidee or Orchidée d'Isalo (30 rooms)
Ranohira
Tel: + 261 (0)32 4467689 (mobile)
www.orchidee-isalo.com

Isalo Ranch (20 bungalows)
Tel: +261 (0)20 2330928
Email: info@isalo-ranch.com
www.isalo-ranch.com

Satrana Lodge (40 bungalows)
Tel: +261 (0)20 2221974 or +261 (0)34 1426087 (mobile) or +261 (0)34 1405949 (mobile)
Email: satranalodge@cortezexpeditions.mg
www.hotel-isalo-lodge.com

Joyau de l'Isalo (20 bungalows)
Tel: +261 (0)20 2253644 or +261 (0)33 1268092 (mobile)
Email: joyaudisalo@yahoo.fr

Isalo Rock Lodge (60 rooms)
Tel: +261 (0)20 2232860
Email: resirl@hms1.mg
www.isalorocklodge.com

Le Jardin du Roy - 27 bungalows
Tel: +261 (0)20 2235165 or +261 (0)32 0784344 (mobile) or +261 (0)33 0712307
www.lejardinduroy.com

Relais de la Reine (30 rooms, sisterhotel of Jardin du Roy)
www.lerelaisdelareine.com

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